Router Adjustment - Canadian Woodworking Magazine

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Router Adjustment



When I demonstrate at wood shows, I am nearly always asked: “How do you adjust your router so easily?” It seems that a lot of new woodworkers and many veterans have plunge routers mounted in their router tables. The reason they can’t adjust the height of the routers easily is because they have not removed the springs from the plunge mechanism. I will take you step by step through removing the springs from most of the common routers on the market, beginning with the Hitachi M12V. If I don’t cover your router this time, then look for it in upcoming issues.
 
These instructions are strictly the opinions of the author and do not necessarily reflect those of the manufacturer. Always refer to your owner’s manual for exploded views of your router and, if you don’t feel comfortable with these directions, do not remove your springs.
 
Make sure that your router is always unplugged before attempting any procedures such as those listed in this article. SAFETY FIRST!!!
 
Step 1
Lay the router on its back with the threaded rod face up and lock it into position.
 
Step 2
Remove the two 13mm nuts that are at the top of the rod. (Fig. 1)
 
Step 3
Lay the router on its back with the lock mechanism down to the table surface. (Fig. 2)
 
Step 4
With your body against the base plate, and your hands on the router, release the lock mechanism. The base will press against you and will start to slide off. (Fig. 3)
 
Step 5
When there is no pressure against you, grab the base and pull the base off. The springs will be hanging from the router. (Fig. 4)
 
Step 6
Begin pulling the springs out of the body. As you pull, bend them down a bit. This will grab the two metal posts inside the springs. They are inside the springs to keep the springs from coiling up on themselves. (Fig. 5)
 
Step 7
Remove the springs and metal posts.

Note: the lock mechanism is a small brass pin that cams out to lock the router in place and cams in to unlock it. Do not lose this pin or your router will not be able to lock. The pin sits in a small hole about 1” in from the bottom of the column hole. It sits in the router like a barrel and is not attached. It has no left or right so if you pull it out remember to put it back in again. (Fig. 6 & 6A)


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Step 8
Slide the base back into the router body. Make sure that the threaded rod slides under the horseshoe shaped body housing. With your router on its back and the lock down to the table, slide the long column into the left side of the body and then slide the right side in. Do no force the short column into the router (it should slide in easily). Maintain pressure on the long column as it slides in. This will allow the short one to slide in also. You may notice a lip on the router body that the short column slides into. Wiggle the base until the short column hits the hole. (Fig. 7A & B)
 
Step 9
Once the base is in, lock your router into place and turn it over with the threaded rod face up.
 
Step 10
Thread the two 13mm nuts over the threaded rod and turn them until they are about ¾” from the top of the rod. Lock them together so that they won’t vibrate off. (Fig. 8)

Your router is now ready to mount into your table and will be much easier to adjust without the springs installed.


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Safety Note: These instructions are strictly the opinion of the author and do not reflect those of the manufacturer. Always refer to your owner’s manual for exploded views of your router and, if you don’t feel comfortable with these directions, do not remove your springs.
 



MARK EATON is the founder of The National Router Academy
nra@futureway.com